Today’s post is about repairing a broken LCD monitor.
The HP f1703 LCD monitor has some kind of design flaw that will probably kick in after you have had it for a while. It causes the backlight to cease functioning. Your screen may appear to be on (power button is lit up) with a completely black display, but if you look closely, the display is working, it is just not lit.
This is the second time I’ve repaired one of these and I thought this time I’d document the process. There are other similar explanations available around the Internet, but the one I followed was kind of brief and vague. Hopefully, Google will find this and then it will help some other people who are having similar problems with their HP monitor.
To conduct this repair, you’ll just need a screwdriver, a pair of pliers (or something to remove the VGA screw locks), and a soldering iron.
Note that I take no responsibility for any bad things that happen if you follow or try to follow these directions. This is just what worked for me.
Here it is.
First, we need to remove the stand. Flip the monitor over. There are two circles above where the stand connects to the monitor. The screws are here, covered by little rubbery things.
I used a small knife to remove them. The screws are visible now.
Once they’re out, the stand easily disconnects.
Now, we need to remove the silver-colored plastic casing around the edge of the monitor on the front. The buttons come off with it. This is probably the hardest part.
I started on the bottom and used a knife to kind of pry the silver casing away from the monitor. At a snap point, I rotated the knife to unsnap the plastic. Once you get a few snaps off, it’s pretty easy. There are four snap points across the bottom and four on each side; once I had removed the bottom and sides, the whole thing snapped off.
Now, remove the 12 screws around the LCD screen itself.
You also want to remove the two screws from this board with the power button, and disconnect the colored cable going off to the right. Once that is done, you can lift the LCD away from the back casing.
Now, flip the monitor over so that the screen is facing down. There are three screws to be removed so that you can take the metal grate thing off (only one is in the following picture). You also need to remove the two VGA screw locks and the silver tape.
With the grate thing removed, we are finally to the electronic guts of this device.
Unplug the four white connectors on the left side of the power board (the yellow board). Remember where they were, you need to plug them back in later.
Now, remove the four screws holding the power board in. Remove it by sliding it to the left to disconnect it from the logic board (the green board), and then lifting it out. Now you should have it by itself.
Identify the inductors. They are the little coils of wire. There are four of them.
Now, flip the board over and find the connection points for each inductor. There are two connection points for each one. One is right under the center of the inductor, and one is located where you can see the copper wire poking through the board from each one.
Use a soldering iron to reinforce these connection points. You’ll probably want to add solder. Once this is done, hopefully the monitor is fixed. Time to reassemble it.
Once you completely reconnect the power board, you can plug in the power and see if it works. You may need to press the power button, but hopefully you’ll get this “check video cable” message on your fully functional screen.
That’s it, now finish putting it back together.